Method of and apparatus for treating shoe uppers



Aug. 13, 1940. M. L. DODGE 2,211,054

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed May 6, 1935 4Sheets-Sheet l a I i Aug. 13, 1940. M, DODGE 2,211,054

MLifiOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR TREA'I'JNU SHOE UPPERS Filed May 6, 1935 4Sheets-Sheet 2 M. L. DODGE Aug. 13, 1940.

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed May 6, 1935 4Sheets-Sheet 5 Aug. 13, 1940- -M. L. DODGE 2,211,054

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOE UPPERS Filed May 6, 1935 4Sheets-Sheet 4 $740721)? fill/M l/l flf Maw- Kuum Patented Aug. 13, 1940UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR TREATING SHOEUPPERS 39 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of and ap paratus for treating shoeuppers to improve the appearance and fit of the shoes, the apparatusbeing of the general type illustrated in my application for LettersPatent Serial No. 690,853, filed September 25, 1933, for Apparatus fortreating shoe uppers. Such apparatus is intended to smooth out the upperbetween inner and outer former members, to so treat the top portion ofthe upper as to render inconspicuous, or entirely conceal, the top edgeof the lining, and to so turn in and straighten and smooth the edge ofthe upper as to improve the appearance of the shoe, and to cause the toprim of the shoe to more closely engage the wearers foot.

The present invention is concerned particularly with the forms by whichthe shoe is treated, so as to improve the action of the machine on bothmens and womens shoes of the oxford, tie or strap type, and moreparticularly on mens shoes. To this end the form over which the shoe isplaced is provided with in-turned portions along the upper portion ofits sides for a substantial portion of its length substantiallyconforming to the curve of the upper edge line of the shoe from the heelend to the highest part at the back of the instep portion, forwardly ofwhich the side walls are curved inwardly in a gradual curve outwardlyconvex to their upper edges, preferably meeting in substantially an edgewhich curves forwardly and downwardly toward and in close proximity tothe forward end of the shoe opening or throat portion. The highest partcontains the top eyelets at opposite sides of the lacing slit openingin. shoes of the Oxford type, and in the case of the strap shoe thestrap, or in case more than one strap is used, the top strap starts atthis point. Side pressure forms having, preferably, somewhat yieldablefacings and having pressing surfaces generally complemental in contouralong the top margin of the shoe upper to the inner form are provided,and the shoe upper is engaged between them and the inner form, andpreferably subjected to an upward wiping motion of the engaging outerpresser members as well as pressure of these members toward the innerform during the treating operation. It will be understood thatdirectional terms such as upward, forward, downward etc., as applied tothe form, refer to the form when so positioned that a shoe properly inplace thereon is substantially in its normal upright position with thetread surfaces of its sole and heel substantially horizontal.

If desired the inner form may be extended substantially to the shoesole, as, particularly when heated, this is effective in removing liningwrinkles which may be well below the top rim of the shoe.

The method of treating shoes of the type for which this apparatus isdesigned is covered broadly in my application Serial No. 299,822, filedOctober 17, 1939, for Method of treating shoe uppers, which is adivision of my application Serial No. 690,853 to which reference hasbeen made herein.

For a more complete understanding of this invention, reference may behad to the accompanying drawings in which Figures 1 and 2 are side andfront elevations,

respectively, of a shoetreating machine illustrating the invention.

Figure 3 is a side elevation to a larger scale of the inner form showingin dotted lines the position of a shoe to be treated thereon.

Figure 4 is a top plan of the same.

Figures 5, 6 and 7 are detail sections on the correspondingly numberedsection lines of Figure 3, showing the manner in, which the shoe upperis pressed thereon by the action of the outer presser members which areshown in dotted lines as approaching pressing positions.

Figure 8 is a view somewhat similar to Figure 3, but showing amodification.

Figures 9 and 10 are top plans of a shoe before and after the treatmenthas been eifected, respectively.

Figures 11 and 12 are front elevations of the shoe shown in Figures 9and 10, respectively.

Figures 13 and 14 are fragmentary detail sections showing inner andouter forms with a shoe upper therebetween at the start and at thecompletion, respectively, of the pressing action, the sectioncorresponding closely to that of Figure 6.

Figure 15 is an inside elevation of a side presser member with the coveromitted and relieved below the top of the eyelet stay, and showing indotted lines the lines of eyelets of an oxford shoe in position to beacted upon by this presser member.

Figure 16 is a transverse section through the form and presser of thetype shown in Figure 15, along the line lG-IG of Figure 15, showing ashoe upper in position ready to be pressed against the form.

Figure 1'7 is a view somewhat similar to a portion of Figure 16, butshowing a modification.

Figures 18 and 19 are front elevations of a blucher oxford before andafter treatment, respectively, in accordance with this invention.

Figures 20 and 21 are fragmentary sections through the top portion of apressed edge upper before and after treatment in accordance with thisinvention.

Figure 22 is a transverse section to a larger scale on line 2222 ofFigure 8.

Figures 23 and 24 are fragmentary views partly in section showingmodified constructions of inner form member.

Figure 25 is a View similar to Figure 1, but showing in dotted lines theposition of a tie shoe upper thereon.

Referring to Figures 1 and 2, at l is shown a table top or othersuitable means for supporting the treating mechanism. As shown thistable top has a marginal downwardly extending flange 2 against which issecured a vertical flange portion 3 of a bracket 4. This bracket 4 isshown as provided with a central rearwardly extending web 5 whichengages within a suitable slot in the table I. The bracket extendsupward above the top face of the table I and has a forwardly turnedportion 6 of a somewhat goose-neck shape, to the forward end of whichmay be secured an inner form member 1, over which the shoe to be treatedmay be placed. The bracket 4 also extends below the table top, and atits lower end it may have pivoted thereto, as at 8, the forked extremity9 of an actuating handle lever [0. This handle lever is pivotallyconnected through a pair of links H with the lower end of a rod l2 whichis guided for vertical sliding movement within a guiding portion l3,shown as an integral forward extension from the bracket 4. To the upperend of the rod I2 is pivotally connected oppositely extending links Mand I5, there being two links M which extend on either side of thesingle link IS. The link I5 is bifurcated at its outer end, and betweenthe forks is pivoted the lower end of a lever It. A similar lever I1 ispivoted between the outer ends of the links M. The levers l6 and I! arefulcrumed as at l8 and 19, respectively, on bracket ears extending fromthe bracket 4, and carry at their upper ends outer presser members whichmay be moved toward and from the form member 'I by manipulation of thehand member 10, the links M and I 5 acting as a toggle.

This mechanism per se is substantially the same as that shown in myapplication Serial No. 690,853. the present invention relating morespecifically to the form members I and 25 and to the method inconnection with which these forms are employed. It should be pointedout, however, that when a shoe is placed on the inner form I, and thehandle H) is depressed, the side presser members 25 are moved inwardly,and press the upper of the shoe against the inner form I, theconfiguration of the forms being such that this pressure pullsdownwardly on the outer end of the portion 6, which yields under thispressure so that the pressure members 25 have a component of motionupwardly relative to the inner form I, and produce a wiping action ofthe outer of the shoe heightwise toward the top margin of the upperwhile the lining is held back by its frictional engagement with the formI. This wiping action in addition to the pressure, together with ashrinking action on the lining produced by heating the inner form I, asby the electric heating unit 26, smooths out any lining wrinkles andproduces a desirable effect on the shoe outer as well as on the lining.

This general method of treating shoes forms the subject matter of myapplication for Letters Patent Serial No. 604,455, filed April 11, 1932,for Method of shaping a shoe upper.

The forms comprising the inner member I and Dresser members 25, inaccordance with this invention, are particularly intended for thetreatment of shoes of the Oxford strap and tie types, and while notrestricted thereto, are particularly intended for the treatment of mensshoes.

One embodiment of the inner form 1 is shown more particularly in Figures3 to '7. Referring to these figures, it will be seen that this membercomprises a block having a convex base portion from which arise sidewall members 3|. These side wall members from the heel end 32 forwardlyfor a portion of the length of the form have in-turned upper portions33. These in-turned portions, curving forwardly in a generally upwarddirection, are conformed generally to the curved edge line of the rim oftypes of shoe which are intended to be treated by this form. The top rimof a shoe of these types is indicated by dotted lines from the point ato the point b, rising upwardly bowed or arched from the forward end ofthe shoe opening at the point a to a high point e, from which the edgeextends in a downwardly bowed contour to the heel end of the shoe at b.The portions 33 of the form substantially follow this configuration ofthe shoe upper rim between the points b and 0. Between the side walls ofthe form arises an extension or bracket 35 which is shown as provided atits upper end with a widened head portion 36 which furnishes means bywhich the form I may be secured to the forward end of the bracketportion 6. Forwardly of the point 0 on the form, its side walls areconvexed outwardly and slope toward each other and may terminate in anapex line 40 which slopes downwardly and forwardly to approximately, orslightly rearwardly, of the shoe opening which, as shown, terminatessubstantially at the point a. This apex line 40 is arrangedapproximately in the central vertical plane of the shoe opening,longitudinally of the shoe.

The edge portions 33 are in-turned so that the sides of the upper, moreespecially toward the heel end, and which may comprise an outer 53 and alining 5!, with or without a counter stifffener, no such stiffener beingshown, when turned thereover, as illustrated in Figures 6 and 7, areturned toward each other, but the portions 33 are of such width that anapproximate following of the curvature of the shoe rim is all that isnecessary so that a single form may serve for a considerable range ofsizes and styles of shoes satisfactorily. As it is usually moredifficult to properly turn in the top margin of the shoe toward the heelend, it will usually be found desirable that the surfaces of the formagainst which the upper is pressed be more sharply turned in toward theback of the form than toward the highest points of the upward side wallextensions. The sharpness of the in-turn is therefore preferablydecreased gradually from closely adjacent to the heel end forwardlytoward that part with which the high points of the shoe side extensionsare to be engaged.

In some cases it may be desired to extend the form substantially to thetop face of the sole of the shoe placed thereon in order to prevent theformation and/or to remove lining wrinkles sub stantially below the topmargin of the shoe, as for example is shown at 56, in dotted lines inFigure 8. When this is desired the form may be made as shown in Figure8, the upper contours for receiving the upper edges of the shoe upper atthe opening being substantially the same as shown in Figures 3 to 7, butthe lower portion of the form being extended down substantially to thesole of the shoe indicated in dotted lines at 51 and substantiallyfollowing the curvature of its arch. When this is done it will usuallybe found necessary to make the forms in rights and lefts, although wherethe form is made as in Figures 3 to '7 the same form will commonly besatisfactory for both rights and lefts. This extension of the innerform. member to substantially the sole of the shoe may, of course, bedone with forms suitable for treating other types of shoes than oxfords,ties and straps, as for example, as shown in my application for LettersPatent Serial No. 690,853, which has been previously mentioned. When theforms are made rights and lefts, whether or not they are made to extendclose to the sole, the top line between the heel and high point iscommonly lower on the outside than on the inside and the form may bemade to correspond as shown in Figure 22, the outside being shown at mand the inside at n, and if desired the inside of the form may berelieved as shown at 59 in Figure 8 to provide a space for the tonguewhich is secured on that side.

The outer form or presser members 25 may be shaped with contourssubstantially complemental to the side faces of the inner member 1, andmay be provided with facings 60 of leather or other suitable materialwhich will have the desired amount of gripping engagement on the outerfaces of the shoe outer 50, and these facings may be backed up withresilient material such as rubber, as at 6|, so that these facings mayautomatically be conformed as the members 25 are pressed against thefaces of the form 1. The facings 60 may be secured in any suitablemanner, as by lacings 62, as more fully described in my applicationSerial No. 690,853. Little pressure of the shoe between the inner formand the presser members is necessary to remove wrinkles below the upperportions of the shoe side walls, and much pressure is usuallyundesirable where a counter stiffener is positioned, as it may tend toshow a line where the pressure is suddenly relieved, as at the bottom ofthe form.

Referring to Figures 13 and 14, it will be noted that the outer 58 andthe lining 5| which may be top-stitched together as at 65, extendsomewhat above the in-turned edge portions 33 rearwardly of the highestpoint of the shoe upper side wall extensions, and as the outer pressermembers are brought toward the form 1 this upper portion of the upper isturned over and pressed firmly against the form 'I while the upwardwiping motion of the presser member 25 tends to extend the outer 50above the stitch line upwardly, and presses it against the form I whilethe upper edge of the lining 5| is attenuated and pressed into theadjacent face of the outer 5n, the stitch line 65 tending to bedistorted from its substantially perpendicular relation to the sidefaces of the upper as shown in Figure 13 to the slantwise conditionshown in Figure 14. This action takes place along the sides of the shoeopening from the heel end substantially to the highest points of theupper side extensions at c, smoothing the upper along its top edge,turning the top margins inwardly toward each other so that they morefirmly grip the ankle of the wearer, and forming out the irregularitiesas shown in these side portions at 10 in Figure 9 to a smooth edgecontour shown at H in Figure 10, the upper edge of the lining being morenearly concealed in the completely treated shoe. From the point eforwardly to the forward end of the shoe opening, as at a, the outer issimilarly projected over the lining edge and the lining edge thinned andpressed into the outer. The upper is smoothed and rounded, the highpoints being brought toward each other as shown in Figure 12 from therelatively irregular condition shown in Figures 9 and 11. This actionthus materially improves the appearance of the shoe and where it engagesabout the ankle and over the instep of the wearer produces a much closerengagement, thus substantially improving the fit as well as theappearance. While the wiping action is of great utility, it should beunderstood that pressure of itself is sufiicient to give an improvedappearance to the shoe, though wiping makes the accomplishment of thedesired result easier. This invention in its broadest aspect, therefore,is not limited to wiping in conjunction with such pressure. Bending ofthe portion 6 is also not essential to produce a wiping action, yieldingof the cushioning portions 6| under the pressure acting to produce suchwiping action. Besides this, any wrinkles in the lining, moreparticularly adjacent to the shoe opening, or in case of the form shownin Figure 8 being used, throughout the entire height of the lining, areshrunken and ironed out.

In Figure 15 is shown a construction of outer presser memberparticularly suitable for use in connection with shoes of the oxford ortie type provided with eyelet stays extending from the highest points ofthe shoe upper side extensions forwardly to or toward the throat. It isfound undesirable to subject the eyelets to as severe a pressure as thatdesired to be exerted on the top margin of the eyelet stay, particularlywhere the eyelets are set blind, for the reason that this pressurecauses the blind eyelets to show through the outer of the shoe, and itis also undesirable to subject the eyelets themselves to such pressureeven when they are not set blind. For this reason the presser element 80shown in Figure 15 is provided with a top margin 8| so formed that theheaviest pressure is exerted thereby along the top margin of the shoeupper, while below the portion 8| the inner face of the presser memberis relieved, as at 82, or it may even there terminate so that below theportion 8| a less severe pressure is exerted. Rearwardly of the portion8| the presser element is provided with the rib 83 shaped generallycomplemental to the in-turned portion 33 of the form (see Figure 3) withwhich it is designed to cooperate. The lower edge of the forward end ofthis presser element is shown as concaved, this avoiding pressure andthe formation of wrinkles in the vamp during the pressing operationwhich is liable to occur when the pressing element may engage the vampbelow the forward portion of the top opening, particularly where theshoe is somewhat wider than the form. By avoiding the application ofpressure well down on the shoe below the throat portion, this wrinklingis avoided. As shown best in Figure 16 the outer presser members, suchas 80, may be covered with a layer of rubber or other suitablecushioning material as at 85, and may further be provided with a facingof leather or the like as at 86 which directly contacts with the shoeupper. As shown in Figure 16 the outer 50 and the lining 5|,top-stitched together, are so engaged between the form 1 and the pressermembers that the upper edge portions of the shoe upper above the linesof the eyelets 81 are firmly engaged by the facing 86 of the presserelements 80, while where the eyelets are positioned, this pressure ismuch relieved.

In Figure 17 a slight modification is shown in which the relief for theeyelets is provided by recesses St on opposite sides of the form 1,these recesses being arranged opposite to the line of the eyelets.

In Figures 18 and 19 are illustrated oxford shoes of the blucher typebefore and after treatment in accordance with this invention. It will benoted in Figure 18 that the blucher wings I00, including the marginaleyelet stays IOI, are outwardly turned and are irregular in contour asthey come from the ordinary finishing operations to which a shoe of thistype is ordinarily subjected. After treatment in accordance with thisinvention, these wings I 00 are turned in toward each other, presseddown and straightened, to 20 give the general appearance shown in Figure19. In Figures 20 and 21 are shown the effects of the pressure treatmenton the top margin of a shoe having a pressed edge. In a shoe of thepressed edge type the outer N15 is skived off at 25' its upper edge,which is then folded over and cemented to itself substantially withinthe skived margin as shown at H". This treatment is done before the shoeis top stitched and the placing of the top stitching as at I08 tends tospread the top margin of the outer, the stitches pulling the materialagainst the lining I09. The treatment in accordance with this inventionthins this portion I01 and presses the lining H19 into the relationshipshown in Figure 21, while the top margin is tapered and pressed into acompact form as shown at I I0.

Where the form is made to extend substantially to the sole of the shoe,as shown in Figure 8, in which case it will usually be found necessaryto make the forms lefts and rights, advantage may also be taken of thefact that most oxford shoes are arranged with their sides lower aboutthe outside of the ankle than on the inside. The downward sweep of thein-turned curvature 33 of the form may then be made lower on the outsideof the form than on the inside as shown at m and n, respectively, inFigure 22. Where the same form is used for rights and lefts, it is, ofcourse, not possible to do this, but there is 50.;sufl1cient widthincluded in the in-turned portion so that the side walls of the shoe maybe brought into desired in-turned positions with sufficient accuracy.

In some cases, particularly with shoes made of very light uppermaterials, there has been found a tendency for the side forming pressureto produce slight wrinkles across the vamp at the throat portion of theshoe. Where difficulty of this kind is experienced, it is possible toover- 5 -,come it entirely by supporting the shoe adjacent to the throatportion from the inside with a slight upward pressure during the sidepressing operation. In Figure 23 this action is shown as produced bymeans of a threat block I23 which is 5,,supported for a slight universaltilting movement on the upper end of a coil spring I22, which is carriedat the outer end of an extension I123 which may be secured to the lowerface of the form I as by means of the screws I25. The {0 spring I22 alsohas the further function of producing a slight upward pressure againstthe inner face of the throat of the shoe.

In Figure 24 a modified construction is shown in which a throat blockI35 is employed which 757 may be made of sponge rubber or the like andwhich may be secured to a leaf spring l3! which is secured as by screwsI32 to the form 1. In order to avoid any deleterious effect on thespring by reason of the heat to which the form 1 is subjected, the leafspring may be protected from this heat by means of a layer of heatinsulating material such as asbestos or the like such as I35 interposedbetween the spring l3] and the form I.

It is also possible to prevent wrinkles of the throat portion byexerting a slight downward pressure on the forward portion of the shoe.This may be done as by means of a. spring M5, shown in Figure 25, whichmay be carried by the form 1 and may engage the top face of the solenear its forward end, or the pressure may be exerted on the outside ofthe shoe as by the spring arm M! which is carried by the portion 6 andengages on the top face of the box toe of the shoe, as shown in Figure8.

Figure 25 shows in dotted outline a shoe of the tie type applied to aform such as 1 in Figure 3. A shoe of this type is provided with theupward extensions as I40 through which the tie elements are placed whichsecure the opposite sides of the shoe together, forwardly of which theshoe upper is cut away as at I4I. This upward extension I40 may beengaged with the side wall 3| of the form in a manner similar to that inwhich the eyelet stays of an oxford type of shoe may be engaged.Similarly a shoe of the strap type has upward extensions where one ormore straps pass from one side of the shoe to the other, these upwardextensions, including the root portions of the straps, being pressedagainst the side walls of the form during the operation of the apparatusthereon.

From the foregoing description of certain embodiments of this invention,it will be evident to those skilled in the art that various changes andmodifications may be made without departing from the spirit or scope ofthis invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A form for a shoe having a curved top edge, said form having a sideface in-turned above its lower edge from the heel end forwardly andoutwardly convex, said in-turned portion substantially following the topedge line of the shoe, and a. bracket portion on said form forsecurement to a support.

2. A form over which may be placed a shoe having a top edge lineconcaved along the side of the shoe for a portion of its lengthforwardly of the heel end of the shoe, said form having its side facein-turned between its upper and lower edges to form an outwardlypresented convex surface generally following said concaved top edge linealong the side of said form.

3. A form over which may be placed a shoe having a top edge lineconcaved along the side of the shoe for a portion of its lengthforwardly of the heel end of the shoe, said form having its side facein-turned between its upper and lower edges to form an outwardlypresented convex surface generally following said concaved top edge linealong the side of said form, and a bracket portion on said form forsecurement to a support.

4. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, said formhaving a side wall portion with which the shoe upper may be engaged fromthe highest portion of said extension forwardly toward the forward endof the shoe opening, said form side wall por- .tion being inwardlyinclined upwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateralcenter of the shoe opening, and a bracket portion on said form forsecurement to a support.

5. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, said formhaving a side wall portion with which the shoe upper may be engaged fromthe highest portion of said extension forwardly toward the forward endof the shoe opening, said form side wall portion being inwardly inclinedupwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateral centerof the shoe opening and being outwardly convex.

6. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, the top edgeline along the side of the shoe being concave between the heel end andthe highest part of said extension, said form having its side facein-turned between its upper and lower edges to form a surface generallyfollowing said top edge line along the side of the form and having aside wall portion with which the shoe upper may be engaged from thehighest part of said extension forwardly, toward the forward end of theshoe opening, said portion being inwardly inclined upwardly andforwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateral center of the shoeopening.

'7. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, the top edgeline along the side of the shoe being concaved between the heel end andthe highest part of said extension, said form having its side facein-turned between its upper and lower edges to form an outwardlypresented convex surface generally following said top edge line alongthe side of the form, and having a side wall portion with which the shoeupper may be engaged from the highest part of said extension forwardlytoward the forward end of the shoe opening, said portion being inwardlyinclined upwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateralcenter of the shoe opening.

8. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, the top edgeline along the side of the shoe being concaved between the heel end andthe highest part of said extension, said form having its side facein-turned between its upper and lower edges to form an outwardlypresented convex surface generally following said top edge line alongthe side of the form, and having a side wall portion with which the shoeupper may be engaged from the highest part of said extension forwardlytoward the forward end of the shoe opening, said portion being inwardlyinclined upwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateralcenter of the shoe opening and being outwardly convex.

9. A form over which may be placed a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel end and back of the throat, the top edgeline along the side of the shoe being concaved between the heel end andthe highest part of said extension, said form having its side facein-turned between its upper and lower edges to form an outwardlypresented convex surface generally following said top edge line alongthe side of the form, and having a side wall portion with which the shoeupper may be engaged from the highest part of said extension forwardlytoward the forward end of the shoe opening, said portion being inwardlyinclined upwardly and forwardly toward the vertical plane of the lateralcenter of the shoe opening and being outwardly convex and of moregradual curvature than said outwardly presented convex surface.

10. A form over which a shoe having an upward extension forwardly of theheel end and back of the throat may be placed, said form having oppositeside faces in-turned from the heel end of said form forwardly toapproximately the highest part of the extension of the correspondingshoe upper side and approximately following the contour of the top edgeline of said shoe upper side lengthwise, said side walls forwardly ofsaid highest part curving inwardly toward each other in an outwardlyconvex curve toward a forwardly and downwardly extending apex linearranged substantially in the central longitudinally vertical plane ofthe shoe opening to substantially the forward end of the shoe opening atthe throat, said form having a bracket portion for securement to asupport.

11. In combination, a form for a shoe having a curved top edge, saidform having a side face in-turned above its lower edge from the heel endforwardly and outwardly convex, said in-turned portion substantiallyfollowing the top edge line of the shoe, and an outer presser memberhaving a pressing face substantially following the top edge line of theshoe for pressing the marginal portion of the shoe upper against saidform.

12. In combination, a shoe upper treating apparatus comprising a formover which a shoe may be placed and having a side face terminating atits lower edge closely adjacent to the sole of a shoe placed thereon andsubstantially following the curve of the arch of said sole, andpresenting a face portion against which the top margin of the shoe uppermay be pressed, and an outer presser member for pressing the shoe sideagainst said face portion.

13. In combination, a shoe upper treating apparatus comprising a formover which a shoe may be placed and having side faces terminating attheir lower edges closely adjacent to the sole of a shoe placed thereonand substantially following the curve of the arch of said sole andpresenting face portions against which the top margins of a shoe placedthereon may be pressed, said form being made to suit the shoe whetherright or left, and side presser members for pressing the top marginalportions of the shoe upper against said face portions.

14. In combination, a form over which a shoe may be placed and havinginwardly turned side face portions, the in-turned face portion on oneside of said form being positioned lower than that on the other side,and presser members for pressing the sides of the shoe upper againstsaid portions.

15. In combination, a form over which may be placed a shoe havingconcaved top edge lines, the concavity on one side of the shoe beinggreater than on the other, said form having in-turned side face portionsfollowing generally the corresponding top edge lines of the shoelengthwise thereof, and presser members for pressing the sides of theshoe upper adjacent to their top edges against said portions.

16. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed,said form having a side face inturned above its lower edge from the heelend forwardly to approximately the highest point of said upwardextension, said in-turned portion substantially following the edgecontour of said shoe upper side wall lengthwise of the form, and apresser member having a portion substantially following the contour ofsaid in-turned portion for pressing the edge portion of the shoe upperagainst said form.

17. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed,said form having a side wall portion with which a side wall of the shoeupper may be engaged from the highest point of said extension forwardlysubstantially to the forward end of the shoe opening, said side wallterminating in its upper and forward edge in a plane substantially inthe lateral center of the shoe opening, and a presser member forpressing the shoe along the forward top edge of said extension againstsaid form.

18. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed,said form having a side wall portion with which a side wall of the shoeupper may be engaged from its highest point forwardly substantially tothe forward end of the shoe opening, said side wall being outwardlyconvex and terminating in its upper and forward edge in an upwardlybowed arch in a plane substantially in the lateral center of the shoeopening, and a presser member for pressing the shoe upper along theforward top edge of said extension against the shoe form.

19. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed,said form having a side face in-turned above its lower edge from theheel end forwardly to approximately the highest point of the shoe upperextension approximating the contour of the corresponding portion of thetop rim of the shoe, and forwardly of said point in a more gradualinward and upward curve toward the plane of the central longitudinalaxis of the shoe opening, and a presser member for pressing the topmargin of the shoe upper substantially from the heel to the throat ofthe shoe against said form.

20. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward extensionforwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed, said formhaving opposite side faces in-turned from the heel end of said formforwardly to approximately the highest point of the corresponding shoeupper side at said extension, and approximately following the contour ofthe top line of said shoe upper side lengthwise, said side wallsforwardly of said highest point curving inwardly in an outwardly convexcurve toward each other more gradually than said in-turned portions andapproaching a forwardly and downwardly curved apex line arrangedsubstantially in the central longitudinal vertical plane of the shoeopening to substantially the forward end of the shoe opening, and apresser member for pressing the top margin of the shoe uppersubstantially from the heel to the throat of the shoe against said form.

21. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward extensionback of the throat may be placed, said form having a side face inturnedabove its lower edge from the heel end forwardly to approximately thehighest point of the shoe extension in a contour approximating thecontour of the corresponding portion of the top rim of the shoe, andforwardly of said point in a more gradual inward and upward curve toapproximately the plane of the central longitudinal axis of the shoeopening, and an outer presser member having a generally complementalpressure face for pressing the upper portion of a shoe side against saidform.

22. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward extensionback of the throat may be placed, said form having opposite side facesin-turned from the heel end of said form forwardly to approximately thehighest point of the corresponding shoe upper side extension, andapproximately following the contour of said shoe upper side lengthwise,said side walls forwardly of said highest point curving inwardly towardeach other more gradually and meeting in a forwardly and downwardlycurved apex line arranged substantially in the central longitudinalvertical plane of the shoe opening to substantially the forward end ofthe shoe opening, side presser members having pressing faces generallycomplemental to said form, and means for actuating said members to pressthe side portions of a shoe against said form.

23. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward sideextension back of the throat may be placed, said form having oppositeside faces in-turned from the heel end of said form forwardly toapproximately the highest point of the corresponding shoe upper sideextension, and approximately following the contour of said shoe upperside lengthwise, said side walls forwardly of said highest point curvinginwardly toward each other more gradually and meeting in a forwardly anddownwardly curved apex line arranged substantially in the centrallongitudinal vertical plane of the shoe opening to substantially theforward end of the shoe opening, side presser members having pressingfaces generally complemental to said form, and means for actuating saidmembers to press the side wall portions of a shoe against said form witha component of motion toward the top of said shoe sides.

24. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward sideextension back of the throat may be placed, said form having a. sideface in contact with which said extension may be pressed, said side facebeing inclined forwardly toward the longitudinal axis of the shoe, and aside presser member having a generally complementally shaped pressingsurface for pressing said extension against said face.

25. In combination, a form over which a shoe having eyelets may beplaced, said form having a side wall portion against which the shoeupper may be engaged, and means engaging said upper along its marginactuable to press said upper against said form while said eyelets aresubstantially relieved of such pressure.

26. In combination, a pair of members between which the eyeleted portionof a shoe upper may be pressed, at least one of said members beingrelieved in line with the eyelets of said portion whereby to effectpressure on said shoe upper adjacent to said eyelets in excess of thepressure at said eyelets.

27. In combination, a pair of members between which the eyeleted portionof a shoe upper may be pressed, at least one of said members beingrelieved and in line with the eyelets of said portion whereby to effectpressure on the marginal portion in excess of the pressure on saideyelets, and means for moving said members toward and from each otherwith a component of motion heightwise of the upper.

28. In combination, a form over which the upper of a shoe may be placed,means for pressing the sides of the upper against said form and meansfor pressing downwardly the toe portion of the shoe.

29. In combination, a form over which the upper of a shoe may be placed,means for pressing the sides of the upper against said form, and meansexerting an upwardly directed pressure on the inside of the shoeadjacent to the throat portion.

30. In combination, a form having side walls with which the sides of ashoe upper placed over said form may be engaged, and a forward extensionspring supported from said form having a part for yielding engagementwith the inner face of the throat portion of said upper.

31. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward sideextension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed,said form having a side face inclined upwardly and forwardly toward thelongitudinal axis of the shoe, and a side presser member for pressingthe marginal portion of said extension against said face.

32. In combination, a form having a side of the general shape of theside of a last from the heel end forwardly to at least the throat of anOidord shoe to be supported thereon, a side presser member having apressing contour substantially following longitudinally the contour ofsaid shoe upper margin, and means for relatively moving said form andside presser member to press the upper margin therebetween.

33. In combination, a form over which an Oxford shoe having an upwardside extension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may beplaced, said form having a side wall portion with which a side wall ofthe shoe upper may be engaged from the highest point of said extensionforwardly substantially to the forward end of the shoe opening, saidside wall being inclined in an upward and forward direction approachingan apex line in a plane substantially in the lateral center of the shoeopening, and a presser member for pressing the shoe along the forwardouter edge of said extension against said form.

34. In combination, a form over which an Oxford shoe having an upwardside extension forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may beplaced, said form having opposite side faces inturned above its loweredge from the heel end forwardly, said side faces approaching towardtheir forward end an apex line substantially in the center of thelongitudinal plane of the shoe opening, and presser members for pressingthe edge portions of the shoe upper against said form.

35. In combination, a form over which a shoe having an upward extensionof its side forwardly of the heel and back of the throat may be placed,said extension being defined by a concave rear edge merging with the topedge of the shoe upper back from said extension, said form having aninwardly curved side face portion between its top and bottom facesfollowing longitudinally the general contour of said concave rear edgeand said top edge and having a side wall portion forwardly of said rearedge outwardly convex and of a flatter curvature than that of said sideface portion, and a pressing member having a pressing face ofsubstantially the contour of the top edge line of said upper from theheel end to the throat of the shoe for pressing the top margin of theshoe against said inwardly curved side face portion and against saidside wall portion forwardly of said rear edge.

36. A form over which a shoe having a tongue may be placed, said formbeing shaped to support the shoe upper and having a recess to receivesaid tongue.

37. A form over which a shoe having a tongue may be placed, said formbeing shaped to support the shoe upper and having a recess in one sideface to receive said tongue.

38. In combination, a form shaped to support the top marginal portion ofthe upper of a shoe placed over said form, and a member having apressing portion shaped to engage said marginal portion and press itagainst said form, said member when in pressing position being out ofclose engagement with the vamp of the shoe adjacent to the forward endof the top opening of the shoe.

39. The step in the treatment of a shoe having an eyeleted portion,which comprises pressing said portion substantially from end to endwhile exerting a materially less pressure along the line of eyeletstherein than adjacent to its upper margin.

MILTON L. DODGE.

